I got word from Adam Ondra and Vojt?ch Vrzba
About his flash of Confessions
, Adam says: "I had not thought at all I could flash. It looked so impossible and also when I saw Daniel Woods trying it last year it looked really hard. In every move while climbing I was surprised that I was still on the rock and suddenly I was in the upper and easy part. And I started to cheer."
Vojt?ch tells us about the trip:Five Frozen Days in Swiss"Get my mind focused after such a merry-go-round last days.Our fingers got frozen many times and we still tried to defrost them and imitate bouldering. Or, at least, press the shutter on my camera.Arrived on Thursday morning to Chironico, blue skies, sunny day and...no humid in the air. All felt like glass, no friction and VERY cold rock. Firt serious try for Adam that day (on 8A+) and he cut two fingers on the sharp crimp, when he slipped. Bugger! End of the trip? No way! Let's put on some healing cream and move ourselves to Cresciano, where might be a better conditions. Immediate direction - Dreamtime area and clear choice "The Dagger 8B+" (amazing roof with no holds - just two slopy edges) . Berndt Zangerl is already there, having sunny rest on his crashpad. They both tried "The Dagger 8B+" and Adam made all the moves and he was looking forward to next day already.Friday morning - perfect contitions and after a short warm-up, Adam sent "The Dagger" in his third try! Good start of the day, what's next?! Dave Graham's unrepeated "The Story of Two Worlds 8C/8C+ (?)" (sit-start and 5 hard moves to join The Dagger and finish it in this line). Couple of tries but still ONE move is out of Adam's limit. (Too tired?)Saturday is the restday. Hanging around between boulders, chating with people and looking for new lines. Opening party for 1001 block (new refuge in Cresciano) in the evening and get ready for the next day!Sunday - few tries in "The Story..." but still, can't link it to The Dagger. Time to move La Boule area. The target is "Confessions 8B+". Before we got ready with cameras, Adam flashed it! He nearly fell at the end, but....he won't let go such a chance! Smile and happy scream on his face....Satisfied already? Not yet...other boulderproblems waiting. He was surfing on the "sending wave", so he flashed "Un Ange Avec des Cornes 8A+", sent "La Proue 8B" and finished the day with "Le Vent Sombre 8A". Not bad, you monster!Monday - started snowing! Why?! But temperature not so low so ok for another skin-lost in the wood. Adam started with "Mithril 8B" (he saw Dave's video last evening, so he knew the beta...another flash try?) Unfortunately not. Every next attempt was even worse. (Adam, don't be sad, you have to keep at least something for the next visit!) Three ours untill gets dark..let's go back to Dreamtime area. Broken hold in "Dreamtime 8B+" might be a stopper...but Adam found a little crimp on the left - just ONE try, if it's possible to do it (after the rest of the hold gets broken too - and it will, be sure!) Stand start - Easy-Peasy Japanese - and he is already climbing down the "descent" tree. No time wasting there - two minutes rest and let's go for sit-start now....and? you know what happened already, anyway! (Adam is NOT from here:)FINALLY even Adam is satisfied...nice Christmas presents for him!"Thanks a lot guys! And happy holidays to you!
This news story has been read 573 times