In a brilliant act of Gonzo journalism at its best, Jack Geldard, UK Climbing's Chief Editor, has onsighted Bam, Bam, E8 6b, Stevie Haston's new route on the Stigmata buttress on the Lleyn Peninsular, Wales.
Jack, who's recently discovered The flight of the conchord's, comments "Conditions were perfect - there was nothing good on TV".
While conditions might have been perfect, the route itself sounds like a nightmare, with tons of loose rock raining down on the belayer (Ian Wilson). Comforting enough, Jack and Ian took safety very seriously as "Ian rolled all his cigarettes before I started climbing, so he could keep hold of the rope almost all of the time."
With this ascent Jack joins the ranks of the very few to have onsighted an E8. Effort!
Full story on UK Climbing.