![]() |
New route by Lamprechtby Björn Pohl - UKC May/2009This news story has been read 505 times
Toni Lamprecht has climbed yet another top-route:"Pe'ahi is the name given to a big wave surfing reef break in Maui, called Jaws due to the size and ferocity of the waves. The new Kochel-Route in the South of Germany is called Jaws 11 due to the wave-like feature of the rock, the height of the route and the ferocity of the moves. It is the home of some new-school-climbing including jump-moves and frequent compression bouldering sections, where many specific body and weather conditions must concurrently occur. Although the project is not ![]() exactly new (I placed the bolts already 15 years ago and played around on the moves once in a while) I started to attempt it more seriously in autumn 2008. After a successful boulder-winter I was able to link all the sections in the beginning of Mai after working the route for a couple of weeks. Character: After starting at 15m height with a boulderjump and a hard section following the lip of a fishmouth-looking rock-formation you reach a decent rest. The second part of the route is a hard boulder-sequence that involves a lot of body- and sloper-power. Jaws 11 is a strong contender for the hardest route I have climbed in the area Kochel with a grading potential up in the French 9th grade. Future will show what other climbers will think about the exact grade.I also managed to do Katze auf dem heißen Blechdach, 8c, a tricky route with a double-dyno finish." Photo 1 & 2: 'Jaws 11' Photo 3 'Katze auf dem heißen Blechdach' All by Margit Memminger
|