Shawn Diamond has, according to 8a.nu, done the FA of Direct North, 8B+, in the Buttermilks. Initially, Shawn named it True North, and my guess was, this had to be a sds to Sean McColl's 8B-problem with the same name, done in January of last year. Quite confusing...As it turns out, Shawn wasn't aware of Sean's problem: "There has been much confusion regarding my new FA in Bishop. I had no clue that Sean Mccoll had done a problem on the Grandma peabody, a low traverse into Direction and named it True North V13. I apologize for stealing the name without realizing.
Anyway, I did a COMPLETELY new and exciting line that starts on my problem Direction V13 and ends on a new direct finish that was put up last year by Jeff Sillicox named Magnetic North V9/10. So my new climb, now called, DIRECT NORTH goes up Direction V13 and finishes on the V9/10 Magnetic North ending - clocking in at around V14...
It is absolutely the most proud line on the boulder - climbing straight up the middle of the Grandma face from sit to top - following really difficult climbing the whole way. Unfortunately, for years people have avoided the most obvious but also the most DIFFICULT problem in order to make variations. Direct North is the purest line on the rock... "
Anyway, I did a COMPLETELY new and exciting line that starts on my problem Direction V13 and ends on a new direct finish that was put up last year by Jeff Sillicox named Magnetic North V9/10. So my new climb, now called, DIRECT NORTH goes up Direction V13 and finishes on the V9/10 Magnetic North ending - clocking in at around V14...
It is absolutely the most proud line on the boulder - climbing straight up the middle of the Grandma face from sit to top - following really difficult climbing the whole way. Unfortunately, for years people have avoided the most obvious but also the most DIFFICULT problem in order to make variations. Direct North is the purest line on the rock... "
Photo: The Grandma peabody boulder, by Jeff Sillcox
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