Chris' new 9b

by Björn Pohl - UKC Dec/2008
This news story has been read 651 times

As you may know already, Chris Sharma has made the FA of Golpe de Estado in the El Pati-sector of Siurana. No? Come on, it's been on the web for more than an hour by now!
Anyway... it seems this route is a direct version of Estado critico, 8c+/9a, and that it can be divided into two parts: a 9a directly followed by an 8c+. Chris was a bit unsure about what grade to give it, and thought about 9a+ before settling on 9b. 9a-8c+ = 9b then.
Warning speculation:
If my memory serves me right, Jumbo love, Chris mega route at Clark Mt, is supposed to be 8b-9a-8c+-8a. Comparing this to his new route, I guess this makes sense as 8a and 8b climbing is not likely to affect the grade too much when you're on his level. Possibly Golpe de Estado is a low end 9b whereas Jumbo love is closer to 9b+?
What we need now are repeats! Dani, Ethan, Dave, Adam?
Discuss this news story in the Forums
This news story has been read 651 times
Return to News from December 2008
Share this article on Facebook
Share this article on Twitter