by Björn Pohl - UKC Dec/2008 This news story has been read 809 times
As you may know already, Chris Sharma has made the FA of Golpe de Estado in the El Pati-sector of Siurana. No? Come on, it's been on the web for more than an hour by now! Anyway... it seems this route is a direct version of Estado critico, 8c+/9a, and that it can be divided into two parts: a 9a directly followed by an 8c+. Chris was a bit unsure about what grade to give it, and thought about 9a+ before settling on 9b. 9a-8c+ = 9b then. Warningspeculation: If my memory serves me right, Jumbo love, Chris mega route at Clark Mt, is supposed to be 8b-9a-8c+-8a. Comparing this to his new route, I guess this makes sense as 8a and 8b climbing is not likely to affect the grade too much when you're on his level. Possibly Golpe de Estado is a low end 9b whereas Jumbo love is closer to 9b+? What we need now are repeats! Dani, Ethan, Dave, Adam?