New 1000m F8b in Arco, Italyby Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC May/2010
This news story has been read 6,160 times
Jorg Verhoeven and David Lama have climbed a new 1000m free route close to Arco, Italy.
The route Brento Centro, tackles the huge limestone wall of Monte Brento in the Sarca Valley close to Arco, Italy. It first climbs te lower slabs (400m) then tackles the very overhanging and suspect section in the upper left of the above photo.
Monte Brento is a famous spot for base jumping, as the wall is 1000m high and very overhanging near the top.
Commenting on his website, Jorg Verhoeven said:
"Finally! After 11 days of work Fuzzy and me finished the biggest project I've ever started. While the week before we still had big problems with the bouldery last pitches, this tuesday we could free climb every one of the 30 pitches."
The pair placed around 70 bolts on the route and encountered very loose rock.
Jorg has written a full account in English on his blog, of which this is an extract:
"Brento centro takes a line trough the huge overhanging west face of Mt Brento , and is the first free climbed line. It has well over 1000 climbing meters, and difficulties up till 8b.
In total we spent 11 days working on it, and managed to make a team ascent in one day, in over 13 hrs of climbing.
The rock is very fragile, so care has to be taken on several passages, to not rip off the only holds there are...
Although the grade of 7c has to be climbed obligatory, the whole route is equipped with 6 or 8mm bolts, varying in age (first tries of the start dihedrals in the late '70)."
The annual British Lead and Speed Championships and the final round of the BMC/MCofS Junior Lead Cup and the IFSC... Read more
Ethan Pringle and Dave Graham have made the 5th and 6th ascent of Adam Ondra's Thor's hammer, 9a+, in the Hanshelleren... Read more
Alexander Megos has made the first ascent of Supernova, 9a+/b, at the very steep Planetarium in Frankenjura. The crux comes at... Read more
In October 2014, Jorg Verhoeven spent one month in Yosemite Valley, California with one goal in mind - to make a free... Read more
Founder of the charity Climbers Against Cancer John Ellison has been awarded the prestigious Arco Rock Legends Climbing... Read more