Gabri about Condé du chocby Björn Pohl - UKC Sep/2010
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Gabriele Moroni has climbed his 3rd 9a, Toni Lamiche's Condé du choc. I asked him a few questions about it.
Can you describe the route?'Condé de choc' is a very nice granite route in the alpine crag of Entraygues near Briançon. It's basically two hard boulder problems with a good rest in between them. The first boulder is at about 8A or 8A+ bloc with a very big throw from a very bad LH pinch and a RH slopey finger lock to a good edge. The dyno is ok, but the hard part is to held the huge swing! After that there is a good rest. The second boulder is longer(11 moves) and less intense but the moves are so weird. I can grade this part 8b route or 7C bloc.
An 8A into an 8b/7C. Does this mean the hard part is over once you've done the 8A? What was the redpoint crux for you?Luckily, once I did the hard move of the first part I didn't fall on the second part. But the climbing is still very hard and you can easily fall at every move...even at the very last that is another small dyno.
If you compare it to the other 9a's you've climbed, and to your own 'Elimenti di disturbo', what can you say?Since I only climbed three 9a's now I think I still haven't settled the grade. But I can say 'Condé de choc' could be compared to the other two 9a's [Sankukai and Action directe] I climbed... more or less. I think 'Elementi di disturbo' is a bit easier... but not much. But since it's a first ascent I preferred to stay a bit tight with the grade ;-)
Are you ready for the next level now?I don't know if I'm ready or not but now I'd like to climb a longer 9a.
Thanks a lot Gabri!