Hazel Findlay Climbs 5.13 (E7/8) Crack in Squamish

by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Sep/2010
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+Hazel on John Wayne, 118 kbHazel Findlay cruising the classic E5 of John Wayne in Pembroke, South Wales Kevin Stephens
British climber Hazel Findlay has bagged another hard trad route with her ascent of 69 (5.13b/c F8a/+) on the Leviticus crag in the Murrin Park area of Squamish, British Columbia, Canada.

Leviticus crag is small granite outcrop, a stone's throw from the road and with a rake of hard crack testpieces.

Speaking to UKClimbing.com via email, Hazel described the route of 69:

"It's an intermittent crack line that doesn't really climb like a crack, it has some technical face moves and a bouldery crux that involves slapping and laying-away off slopers above a nut."

The 30m route is protected by small cams and wires and has two distinct crux sections which would rate V7 and V6 as stand alone boulder problems. The V7 crux runs straight in to the V6 sequence with no rest. A route of this physical difficulty, with runouts and small gear would equate to E7/8 in the British scale.

Hazel commented:

"I was pleased to do it, because I am not very good on slopers or bouldery moves. It took me 5 days."

Last year Hazel also visited Squamish and onsighted the 5.12+/13a undercling pitch of The Free Grand, a 10 pitch route on the grand wall (see UKC News). This year Hazel completed the whole route, which has a crux slab pitch of 5.13b (F8a).

Hazel, currently on a Canada and America climbing trip for the summer whilst she has time off from university, is now in Smith Rock, Oregon, USA and is travelling to Yosemite valley next.

Hazel is interviewed in this month's Climb Magazine (see an online preview of the interview or buy the magazine) by the new Editor in chief Dave Pickford. Dave identifies that America and Canada are high on Hazel's hit list:

Dave: You first climbed in Canada and the USA on a round-the-world trip when you were 18, and have returned there several times already. What is it that draws you back so frequently to climb in North America?

Hazel: I love being high up. You don't get the chance to be 600 metres or more above the ground in the UK, doing great climbing on perfect rock. A I really love granite; I love how granite produces an ultra-technical and precise form of movement that you don't really get on any other rock type. And I like the relaxed climbing culture over the Pond - it's easier to be a dirtbag there and get away with it!

With a huge background in hard traditional climbing and a love for long granite routes Yosemite seems a prime target for Hazel... we wish her good luck in 'the valley'!


Hazel Findlay is sponsored by Wild Country and La Sportiva

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