8c again by Sarah Seegerby Björn Pohl - UKC Oct/2010
This news story has been read 7,316 times
Sarah Seeger has managed to repeat Odd fellow in the Frankenjura for her second 8c. She climbed her first of the grade, Steinbock, almost exactly one year ago. To the best of my knowledge, Sarah is still the only woman to have climbed 8c in the Frankenjura.
I checked out the impressive line of ´Odd Fellows´ at the ´Pornowand´ in Frankenjura in spring this year. The lower part has powerful moves on pockets and crimps, followed by a semi-good rest. In the upper part, the wall becomes less steep, however it requires full body tension to hold the small crimps and sidepulls. The crux for me was to get from a bad gaston to a sharp crimp just a few moves before the anchors. After working the sequences I managed to do some good tries, yet due to the rising temperatures I didn´t try the route for a while. After the summer period I was motivated again. But it might have been the high expectations or the nervousness - I fell off again and again. And then it happened: Even if on the day of the ascent the conditions were not totally perfect, I was relaxed and concentrated - and suddenly I was at the top of Odd Fellows, my second 8c.