"Dyno" Dave Gater has been in Spain crushing the dynos as usual, this time though, he has taken it to the next level. In August we reported on him making the FA of the Czech Chuck at Mlynsky vrch in, you guessed it, the Czech Republic. ( UKC News Report ) This dyno is only some 10 cm less than Skyler Weeks' indoor Dyno World Record! The fact that the Czech Chuck dyno requires you to jump backwards and very high off the ground makes it even more impressive.
On Dave's current trip to Spain he has been sampling what the areas around Madrid (very roughly) have to offer in terms of all-out jumps. He flashed Turbo Kleenex, 8A, at Albarracin, did Iberia, 8A, at Navalosa second go, followed by the sit down start (8A+) a few goes after (which was the second ascent). He also did several 7C+ dynos in a few goes and a nice 8A dyno at Escorial in 4 goes.
Whilst climbing at Escorial, a couple of locals mentioned a dyno that was done over 10 years ago at an esoteric crag nearby called Toy Story which had never been repeated. Loads of strong Spanish climbers have tried it including Dani Andrada who commented that he thought it was at least 8B. Along comes Dave and repeats it in a few sessions. He didn't grade it. It was filmed by Miguel Angel Cabezas.
Thanks to Miguel Angel Cabezas and boulderfreaks.blogspot.com
Dave then went back to Escorial to try a project dyno he had worked on before. After dozens of attempts he also managed to do this one. Again, no grade was put forward but he did suggest that it was as hard as Toy Story. He named it Saturn. Unfortunately the footage here doesn't do it justice but it is a long way and very, very awkward.
He's making his way back to the UK after over 7 months in Europe. Let's hope to see some big things from him then. No pressure!
Dave sending Iberia (8a) second go
© Tom Peckitt
Dave Gater flashing Turbo Kleenex (8a) - Albarracin
© Tom Peckitt, Oct 2010
Tom Peckitt is supported by Beyond Hope