2 8c+'s in a day, Pirmin's storyby Björn Pohl - UKC Dec/2010
This news story has been read 2,198 times
As reported in the previous post, after five weeks of horrible warmth and humidity in Kalymnos, Pirmin Bertle did the two 8c+'s Gora Guta Gutarak and Inshallah on the last day of the trip and the very first one with good conditions:
"Three times I was ready to give up. Give up all the tries I had made in the two routes, just because the weather wasn't changing. It was clinging to its 23 or more degrees and its 65% of humidity. For five long weeks. The only interruption was a two weeks period of wet routes because of heavy thunderstorms in the middle of November. But then one day, the forecast announced the 17° and for the very first time wind from the north. On the other hand this Sunday should be our last day in Kalymnos. The work on our book project would force us to take the ferry Monday morning, to leave for Antalya, Turkey.
And the grip was really amazing. After not too few hopeless tries in the boulder crux of Gora... with its round tiny holds and the jump on the otherwise so soapy tufa suddenly was just right for the warm up (nearly ;). The technical 8a to the chain wouldn't and didn't stop me and so I had some reserves left for Inshallah.
The line is probably one of the best on the island with its homogeny and athletic roof climbing on all natural holds. But the first go was full of faults and horribly imprecise and ended up seven moves from chain.
Not like this!
Now we have arrived in Antalya. Nice pleasant landscape and as well an interesting 8c+ ;).