UKC

SIBL Round 2 – Evolution Climbing Centre

© Ed Ratcliffe

The second round of this year's Southern Indoor Bouldering League (SIBL) took place on the 28th November at Evolution Climbing Centre and was attended by over 140 competitors. The previous evening saw the team behind the SIBL, along with the staff from Evolution and professional route setter Andy Perrin, work long into the small hours of Sunday morning creating the usual mix of fun problems ready to put the competitors to the test.

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The head-to-head

At 11am when head organiser Sam rallied everyone together the competition started and the competitors were unleashed on what looked set to be a great day, with a mix of the usual problems you would expect at a competition as well as a few you wouldn't. One of the stand-out problems which sent everyone away smiling, weather completed or not, was problem 1. Competitors had to start by going feet first up the wall into a handstand position to hook onto two big jugs with their toes. If you got this far, then the next move proved to be the crux, having to perform an upside down sit up to grab the jugs which led to hard campus moves to the finish. It certainly proved interesting to watch!

The regulars once again put in a good performance with the ever-strong Westway Team climbing very well. The Evolution Squad also made the most of being on their home ground and soon started to work out some of the more tricky problems. With the extra time that had been allowed for the competition, the atmosphere seemed relaxed and, although record numbers had turned out, by 4.30pm everyone had finished and were ready to see who had managed to get podium position points.

Before the winners were announced and the prizes given out, there was still one more treat in store for all the competitors, the Head-to-Head. Each round the top five scores from the Open category are selected to battle it on one final timed problem just for fun. This round saw Jon Partridge, Sam Cox, Peter Wycislk and Duncan Campbell all called up for the challenge which involved more caving than climbing. The route traversed across the recently built competition wall leading to Evolution's tunnel system where competitors had to crawl into the entrance and make there way along to emerge at the other end underneath the 45 degree wall. At this point the route got harder with an interesting set of moves needed to get out of the tunnel and onto the wall again, where upon a set of sloping holds lead to the finish. The route was also used to separate a tie between the Male Juniors for second and third place with Sebastian Powderham and Jez Etherton both finishing the competition on 188 points. When Sebastian missed a foot hold just before the tunnel and fell off, Jez took full advantage and came very close to finishing the problem.

The final results for the competition were:

Male Open

  1. Jon Partridge 186
  2. Peter Wycislik 185
  3. Tom Gore 176

Female Open

  1. Storme Biggs 141
  2. Abi Heath 131
  3. Jen Wilby 127

Male Junior

  1. Kieran Lowe 191
  2. Jez Etherton 188
  3. Seb Powderham 188
    (Places decided by climb off)

Female Junior

  1. Micky Barnet-Lucas 170
  2. Molly Thompson Smith 168
  3. Ellie Bacmeister 157

Head to head winner

Jon Partridge 1min 12sec

This year's SIBL series is also being covered by Ed Ratcliff and his media company, Slender Films. Check out the Evolution Video below.

SIBL would like to thank all of the competitors who turned out despite the cold and especially Evolution for letting us take over the place all day. The next round is on the 11th December at The Castle in London were we are once again laying on a full days worth of activities including speed competitions, food, lectures and films. We have also teamed up for the third year running with the Castle to bring you the Castle/SIBL annual Christmas Party which will be going on upstairs in the café area, with DJ's and dancing till 3am. For more information please visit the SIBL site - www.sibl.co.uk


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10 Dec, 2010
I love Sibl and this is he first time I've been to the evolution round. It will be that last as well. Compared to the other rounds (from other years too) it was poop. I don't know why they used this wall. Its too small for the amount of people, too cold for a winter league and the old, polished feature Walls do nothing for the route setting. They did well with what they got, but it still isn't up to scratch with the rest of the rounds. I feel like I wasted my money on this ones. Mark
10 Dec, 2010
The travelling SIBL gives a chance to both small and big climbing centres == small and big climbing communities and I think it's good. Take it easy. It's not F1 but open competition to have some fun.
10 Dec, 2010
i understand that mate. and as i said i have a great time and support sibl by paying to compete. just now i know not to bother with this round, as in my view its crap compared to the other rounds. why should i have sympathy because they 'are giving a small wall a go'? its not like they are doing it out of the kindness of their hearts is it? they get paid! you should get what you pay for. and in my opinion it was sub standard. especially as we had to travel quite far to do it. regardless, just saying that if you were going to pick one round to do, it shouldn't be this one (unless you live right next to it, which you wouldn't cos its in the middle of nowhere)
10 Dec, 2010
why wasnt the first round covered by the 'production team'? and im sure there is...no no...in fact i know there are better climbing walls available....such as anyones home woody!
11 Dec, 2010
It wasnt covered by 'the production team' because Ed - who is filming it was not in the country. I believe the rest of the rounds will be filmed assuming Ed can get to them all. I would like to pitch in and say I was actually a little disappointed in the setting. I cant blame it for my performance but: -There were a series of incredibly long reaches which any shorties had a hard time doing. -The hardest problem on the woody had an incredibly easy to reach bonus hold on it which did nothing to separate the top contenders. -one of the other bonus holds was definitely not on one of the hardest 5 problems and again, easy to get to. I know it isnt the easiest thing in the world to set problems for the whole range of SIBL contenders and the venue probably didnt help, but I think a better job could have been done... That said, I still had a good time. Looking forward to Castle round now, better head to bed.
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