FRI NIGHT VID: Muy Caliente! E10 First Ascentby Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Dec/2010
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Tim placing the gear after having completed the long and dangerous runout section of Muy Caliente
UKC News, Jun 2010
© Simon Wilson Tonight's Friday Night Video is from Bamboo Chicken and is of Tim Emmett making the first ascent of Muy Caliente! (E10) in Stennis Ford, Pembroke.
The route, which was first climbed back in June of this year, has seen two repeats already, from visiting Canadian Steve Townshend and from Scottish phenomenon Dave MacLeod.
Tim's early attempts on this route were shown on UKC before in this news item, but this new film shows his actual successful climb. A a real trouser-filler it is too!
The film is part of the DVD Welsh Connections which won 'Best Climbing Film' at Graz, ShAFF and Vancouver film festivals.
Emmett, who has recently been climbing in Bermuda, is a real sea cliff addict:
"I've just done quite a cool DWS in Bermuda, it's the hardest DWS on the island and pretty full on. 'Spicy Times' 5.13a, 20m high, crux at the top above only 6 feet of water. Hence the name!" he recently told UKC.
He also gave us a quick run-down on this year's Pembroke action:
"2010 has been a lively year for some of the hardest routes in Pembroke. Gareth Parry repeated The Big Issue E9, then a hive of interest with Muy Caliente! Wales' first E10. First from Steve Mc'Claw' (McLure), then Dave Birkett. Both of the northern "Wads" (Ref - Charlie Woodburn W.O.L.) hungry for the second accent, were intercepted by visiting Canadian Stevie Town'send' (Townshend). Steve saw the original Muy Caliente! film win at Vancouver Mountain Film Festival and added M.C.! to his immense Squamish ticklist - (all the routes 5.13 or harder).
Then came the whirlwind crushing skills of the Scottish machine Dave Mac'Crush'! (MacLeod) Dave had never been to Pembroke before and found the ease of access, clean rock and absence of midges a refreshing change to his home turf. He quickly dispatched M.C. over a couple of days, modestly offering a grade of 'soft' touch E10 for an onsight lead. A couple of days later Dave and I stood at the bottom of Dave Pickford's excellent 2 pitch E8 'The Brothers Karamazov' with the intention of doing it in one pitch. We decided to draw straws for the lead, Dave won, I belayed. Dave crushed that too, and suggested E9 might be more suitable.