James Pearson - F8b Onsight & E7/8 in Morocco

by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Jan/2011
This news story has been read 8,568 times
+James Pearson onsighting Photoshot (F8b) in Margalef, Spain, 169 kbJames Pearson onsighting Photoshot (F8b) in Margalef, Spain
© James Pearson Collection

+James Pearson cleaning a new route on the granite outcrops of Tafroute, Morocco, 198 kbJames Pearson cleaning a new route on the granite outcrops of Tafroute, Morocco
© James Pearson Collection
James Pearson is currently in Tafroute in Morocco.

Pearson, on good form after a recent trip to Spain (where he onsighted the short and steep F8b Photoshot, at Margalef - see photo above), is hitting the granite outcrops around Tafroute and has flashed two F8b routes (both put up by Dani Andrada about a decade ago when a Spanish team developed a bunch of routes in the area) and has just added a new E7/8 7a trad route.

James commented:

"The [8b routes I flashed] are in Morocco and are both from Andrada, and are fairly bouldery, very technical with small feet...

...Over the last few days I have begun to open up new trad routes, 3 routes so far, up to 7c, all trad, [plus] today I made (what I think!) is the FA of the hardest trad route in the area.  Not sure on the grade yet, but around E7/8 7a."

Tafroute is home to the famous 'painted boulders' and is swamped with granite crags and boulders. It also sits at the base of countless large quartzite mountain crags, likened to a desert Gogarth. The granite, whilst visually superb, is actually of quite poor quality in most areas, making hard climbing and bouldering not as easy to find as it may first appear.

British climbers have been extremely active in developing the area, but mainly on the mountain routes at a more reasonable grade spread. Teams have included the legendary climbers Joe Brown and Chris Bonnington.

You can read more about the quartzite climbing in this UKC Article.

We hope to have full details from James when he gets back from his trip.


+Sunrise on the granite of Tafroute, with Napolean's Cap in the centre., 190 kbSunrise on the granite of Tafroute, with Napolean's Cap in the centre.
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor, Jan 2011
© Jack Geldard

Photo Gallery - James Pearson - Tafroute:

+James Pearson in Tafroute, Morocco, 74 kbJames Pearson in Tafroute, Morocco
© James Pearson Collection
+James Pearson in Tafroute, Morocco, 178 kbJames Pearson in Tafroute, Morocco
© James Pearson Collection
+James Pearson in Tafroute, Morocco, 152 kbJames Pearson in Tafroute, Morocco
© James Pearson Collection
+James Pearson in Tafroute, Morocco, 233 kbJames Pearson in Tafroute, Morocco
© James Pearson Collection

You can keep up to date with James on his new website: www.realbigpimp.in

James Pearson is sponsored by Wild Country, Five Ten, The North Face, Adidas Eyewear

Forums ( Read more )
This has been read 8,568 times