Dr Jeremy Windsor and Dr George Rodway have completed four information articles on popular peaks. These articles have been published online by the UIAA.
The info sheets contain route descriptions, evacuation notes and a lot of very useful information for climbers wishing to attempt these popular peaks.
Example from the Denali Info Sheet:
"Evacuation: Basin Camp at 4330 m is the site of a NPS climbing ranger encampment and is occupied from late April to early July. In addition, there is normally a medically-trained individual working on the rotating ranger patrols that criss cross the mountain throughout the season. This is an emergency “facility” – do not rely on the NPS for first aid supplies and other things which should be a normal part of your expeditionary kit! The NPS Search and Rescue Policy states that rescue operations are conducted on a discretionary basis. There is an expectation that Park users will demonstrate a degree of self reliance and responsibility for their own safety as regards extracting themselves from problems. Helicopters configured for high altitude rescue are used for urgent evacuations, but the nature of the weather, distances involved, and availability of rescue personnel on Denali makes this a different situation than, for instance, rescue in the European Alps. Parties are better off performing self-rescue if at all possible – one is better off realizing straightaway that Denali is not a place to expect the sort of “rapid response” rescue service routinely seen in Zermatt or Chamonix!"
Thanks go to Tom Briggs of Jagged Globe for alerting us to these articles.