Adam Ondra on La Capella, 9b
Björn Pohl - UKC, Feb 2011
For a long time now, we have become used to Adam Ondra repeating everything hard in every style everywhere. Lately he has began making more and more hard first ascents however, presumably because there's simply not much hard left for him to repeat.
His latest addition, La Capella in the La Capella sector at Siurana, Spain, is possibly his most difficult route to date, first ascent or not.
The 15m route was bolted by David and Carles Brasco and is, according to Adam extremely bouldery: A 7A+/B "warm up" section takes you to two back to back 8A+/B sections with no real rest between them. After these three boulder problems, which could be compared to one long 8C boulder, you get some relaxing 7c+ climbing to the top.
What is interesting is that this is exactly the kind of new school route Paul Robinson and Chris Sharma, among others, have predicted, i.e hard boulder sections stacked on top of eachother as opposed to long endurance marathons.
Everything taken into account, Adam feels this could very well warrant 9b, but adds that he is by no means certain and that time will tell whether this is correct or not. I asked the man a few questions and as the true professional he is, I didn't have to wait long for the answers:
Congrats Adam! Must be a fantastic feeling for you making the FA of such a route
after so much work! Do you think you would have done the route on that try if you would
have had more time?
What can you tell me about the route and its specific difficulties? Can you compare it to other routes you have done?
How different do you find the process of making a first ascent compared to repeating someone else's route?
Thanks a lot Adam!
Here is a video of Adam working what was to become La Capella and Chris Sharma's Golpe de estado.
Source: 9b world climbers party