Nigel Callender repeats Monk Life - Font 8B+by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Mar/2011
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The problem, first climbed by Malcolm Smith in 2003, is on the main buttress of the crag and is described in the UKC Logbooks:
"The line of tiny holds on an otherwise blank face, with a big crux move off a chicken head and sharp pocket to finish on better holds."
Nigel has written up his ascent on his blog where he said:
"When I moved to Newcastle, there was one line that stood out. It was Malcolm Smith's 'Monk Life' at Kyloe. The perfect line of sustained hard climbing on a beautiful scoop of bullet hard sandstone, tucked away in a remote Northumberland wood. Add to this the history of the line - this was Smith's famous 10 year project, the only previous repeaters true Legends of the UK and international climbing scene from the past 10 years."
NB: UKC has a bouldering news round up written by Dan Varian to be published later today.