Working Class for Smith and Pageby Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Mar/2011
This news story has been read 9,426 times
Earlier in the year Martin Smith and Micky Page had a good day at Bowden Doors in Northumberland.
Martin Smith climbed the stand up version of Working Class (Font 8a+) and Micky Page climbed the sit start (Font 8B).
"There are a couple of ways to climb it. To be honest I just followed Mich's beta which was crimpy as hell, but none the less enjoyable climbing."
The description for Working Class in the UKC Logbooks is:
"Start on undercuts and use the sidepull to gain poor slopers then the finishing holds."
Martin had tried the problem three years previously, but had not had the chance to go back. On this year's visit he managed to climb it quite quickly, after aboput 1.5 hours of effort and beta from Micky Page.
"Having already climbed the stand start on a previous visit, Mich had been trying the sitter. Again, after around 1.5 hours of work he managed to dispatch it just before I did the stand. According to the guide the sit-start adds 'a little' but Mich thought otherwise and said the sit definitely warranted the grade of 8B."
Micky Page is one of the UK's top boulderers having climbed many extremely hard problems such as his significant repeat of the Font 8C problem From dirt grows the flowers in Chironico, Switzerland (See UKC News).
Martin Smith recently featured in Dan Varian's gritstone bouldering round up with his repeat of Brownian Motion.
Martin Smith is sponsored by Scarpa
Britain's Shauna Coxsey managed to secure a second win in a row at the IFSC Boulder World Cup in Kazo, Japan at the weekend, just... Read more
Said Belhaj has repeated Chris Sharma's Paoichulo, 9a+, at Oliana, in Catalunya. This was the Swedish climbers hardest route to... Read more
James McHaffie has added a new E9 6c - House of Talons - to Dinas Cromlech in the Llanberis Pass. The fact that a... Read more
UPDATE: A group of climbers have owned up to using crampons at the crag, contacting both UKC and the Northumbrian... Read more
German competition climber Sebastian Halenke has continued his impressive run of form in ticking-off British testpieces whilst on... Read more