Major Alpine Trilogy - Updateby Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Apr/2011
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Earlier in the year Jon Griffith reported on two major alpine ascents climbed by Patrice Glairon Rappaz and Cédric Perillat-Merceroz.
The pair of French climbers knocked off a hard route on both the Grandes Jorasses and the Eiger and were hoping to add a route on the Matterhorn to complete their winter 'trilogy'. Now they have.
Jon Griffith Reports:
Cedric Perillat was kind enough to email over an update on his and Patrice Glairon Rappaz's winter Alpine Trilogy:
The pair finished off their Alpine trilogy on the Cogna-Cerrutti (1100m, VI+/A3) on the north face of the Matterhorn from the 8-11 March.
Here is what he said:
After reaching the Hornli Hut on the 7th March we spent 4 days on the face reaching the summit- 3 bivouacs on the face and one on the descent of the Hornli Ridge, at the famous Solvay bivy hut. The next day a short day allowed us to reach the valley just before the arrival of the 120KMH winds!
This was the shortest of the routes in the Trilogy; after the Grandes Jorasses from the 14-18th January and the Eiger from the 30th January to 5th February. We encountered difficult conditions despite a 'clement' weather forecast: -10c maximum during the day and on the third day we were buffeted around by 60KMh winds. The covering of inconstant snow over the slabs and ice slopes turned easy pitches in to time and consuming and laborious ones. The long climbing days were split by short and uncomfortable bivouacs, where are malfunctioning stove did not hep with rehydrating ourselves! In short it was a real physical but also mental battle...as you say: "find your limits and push them!"
Patrice Glairon Rappaz is sponsored by Milletand Petzl
Report by Jon Griffth - UKC Gear Tester and Professional Photographer. Check out his Chamonix blog here: Alpine Exposures.