VIDEO: Ueli Steck - Shisha Pangma Speed Climb

by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Apr/2011
This news story has been read 8,187 times
We reported top alpinist Ueli Steck's astonishing 10.5 hour speed climb of Shisha Pangma in the UKC news last week. Ueli, who is now preparing for Cho Oyu, has updated his website with comments and video.

photo
Ueli Steck descending Shisha Pangma
UKC News, Apr 2011
© Rob Frost - Himalya Speed

"Shisha Pangma was just great. One of those days when everything works out. I just started to climb, but did not expect to go to the summit. I was just thinking that I am going out to check the conditions up to 7200 meters. But things went well. Perfect Full Moon. Perfect conditions like on Cholatse and I felt great!

I climbed the first part on the British Route then I traversed into the Wieliki Route because of bad rockfall in the night, and I ended by exiting on the Spanish Route. I didn't have a Topo so i just climbed where I felt there was a good way...

The exit was okay, with a few rock sections. After I got to the Summit Ridge I left my pack. There was not much in there but a stove, goggles, some extra food, and half a container of liquid. I climbed the whole route in down pants and jacket. But the temperatures were quite nice. The Meteogram said it was minus 12 degrees Celsius at 8000 meters. Maybe it was around -20 in the night. The ridge was okay not much snow. The wind blew all the snow away earlier, so I reached the main summit quite quickly. Some of the traverse was a little scary because under the ridge on the Northside there was a lot a snow."

VIDEO: Ueli Steck Shisha Pangma Speed Climb

Timings from Ueli:

  • 10:25 PM (16. April): I left ABC
  • 1:10 AM (17 April): I just crossed the Bergschrund
  • 11:40 AM: I reached summit.
  • 6.30 PM: Returned to ABC

Ueli spoke of his coming plans:

"On the whole trip, I felt quite good. No headache. Not totally fatigued... But now here in Nyalam, I can feel I climbed an 8000 meter peak. I am looking forward to Cho Oyu. We just take it easy. Trying to sleep high, to be best prepared for afterward."

Good luck Ueli - and we look forward to your speed climb of Cho Oyu and maybe even Tower Ridge!


Ueli Steck is sponsored by various companies including Mountain Hardwear , Scarpa , Petzl , Beal

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