INTERVIEW: Great season for Jakob Schubert
by Björn Pohl - UKC Apr/2011
This news story has been read 3,780 times
20 year old Austrian competition climber Jakob Schubert has climbed several hard 8c+ routes in the past, but during the last few weeks he has proven he has reached an even higher level.
After a 2nd place in the Milan boulder World cup, he went to Catalunya, Spain, where he first onsighted Aitzol, 8c, and Quim, 8b+, within 1 hour in the Finestra sector at Margalef, and then repeated Chris Sharma's Papichulo, 9a+, at Oliana.
Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert
UKC News, Sep 2010
© Jack Geldard
Jakob Schubert at the Milan boulder WC
Björn Pohl - UKC, Apr 2011
© Nicolò Venturin Chabloz
I asked Jakob if he had an explanation for his recent success:
Yeah you are right, I'm doing pretty damn good ;D
Well I don't really have an explanation... I tried Papichulo in december already and I think I would have been able to do it physically, but I wasn't mentally.
This time I was already thinking I would fail again, but then in my last try of the day I did it. Today it rains and I'm leaving on Sunday, so the next chance would have been in December probably. So happy :)
I knew that I was able to do such a grade and also that I can onsight 8b+ or easy 8c, but that it all happens on this small 10 day Spain trip...never haha!
The 2nd place in Milan is probably the thing that surprised me the most, in my whole life.
It was always a dream to make the finals in a boulder WC, but I always thought I'd have to train specific for it. This year I trained as normal for the lead wc. Of course I trained bouldering as well, but bouldering for a lead climber...
Then I went to Milan to have fun. I liked the style and I was in really good shape -> Finals, I was amazed and so happy, this was also the big advantage in the finals, I didn't care if I get 6th, because 6th would have been already awesome, so I climbed without any pressure, just for fun.
In the end I was 2nd and I can't describe the feeling, it was unbelievable...
I like this season already ;D
Jakob Schubert has an almost ridiculous amount of sponsors: Mammut, Barracuda networks, Reiffeisen, Staudinger, Stasto, ÖAV, ÖVK, Bundesheer, Sporthilfe and Team rot weiss rot