Enzo Oddo repeats Aubade direct, ~9a+by Björn Pohl - UKC May/2011
This news story has been read 4,111 times
Enzo Oddo, 16, has made the first repeat of Aubade direct, ~9a/+, at Sainte-Victoire in southern France.
The route was put up by Gérôme Pouvreau last fall. This was Enzo's second of the grade, the first one being the slightly more famous Biographie at Céüse. On his blog, Enzo says he has no doubts about this one being 9a+, and adds that he has spent several sessions on it before doing any moves. The route can be described as an 8c+, then a not so comfortable rest and then a fingery ~7C+/8Aish crux, followed by a slabby finish.
Gérôme hasn't been lazy lately either, with many first ascents including Le complexe du playboy, another ~9a/+ at Lourmarin.