The Céüse Report #1 2011by Björn Pohl - UKC Jun/2011
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As mentioned before, Summer is here and this means the Céüse season has officially started.
Yes, I know it started a while back and that Melissa Le Nevé, for example, got really close to doing Dave Graham's short and bouldery Bah, Bah, Black Sheep,~8c/+, before leaving for the World Cup in Canada and the US. She'll be back to claim her prize I'm sure.
So, what has actually been done?Ethan Pringle, has made the second ascent of Adam Ondra's Le Cadre Nouvelle Version, ~9a, in the Biographie sector. This variation, which was bolted by Sylvain Millet and first climbed by Adam in September last year, avoids the four chipped holds on the original route by making a big loop to the left before rejoining the old route.
Not to be outdone, Arnoud Petit has managed to climb the 70m Black Bean, 8b+, using only nuts.
Yep, that's right. That's 8b+ on gear on limestone. Is that a first?
Source: KairnPetzl, Lafuma, Beal, La Sportiva and Entre Prises.