As mentioned before, Summer is here and this means the Céüse season has officially started.
Yes, I know it started a while back and that Melissa Le Nevé, for example, got really close to doing Dave Graham's short and bouldery Bah, Bah, Black Sheep,~8c/+, before leaving for the World Cup in Canada and the US. She'll be back to claim her prize I'm sure.
So, what has actually been done?Ethan Pringle, has made the second ascent of Adam Ondra's Le Cadre Nouvelle Version, ~9a, in the Biographie sector. This variation, which was bolted by Sylvain Millet and first climbed by Adam in September last year, avoids the four chipped holds on the original route by making a big loop to the left before rejoining the old route.
Not to be outdone, Arnoud Petit has managed to climb the 70m Black Bean, 8b+, using only nuts.
Yep, that's right. That's 8b+ on gear on limestone. Is that a first?
Ethan Pringle is sponsored by: Mountain Hard Wear, Sanuk, Metolius, Maxim ropes and Petzl.Arnaud Petit is sponsored by: Petzl, Lafuma, Beal, La Sportiva and Entre Prises.
This year's British Lead and Speed Climbing Championships and a round of the Paraclimbing Cup took place at Awesome Walls,... Read more
15 year old Laura Rogora, from Rome, Italy, has repeated Red Bull, 8c, at Collepardo, needing only three tries, making it her... Read more
James McHaffie had a productive weekend in North Wales, establishing an Ogwen highball arête named Devil's... Read more
Ethan Pringle has made the first ascent of what he calls his possibly coolest and most unique first ascent ever, Black... Read more
After a multi-year on and off siege, Jon Cardwell has repeated Chris Sharma's Biographie (a.k.a. Realization), 9a+, at... Read more