"It's without doubt the coolest line I've opened in Ireland. Long with some safe runouts and some amazing moves. It felt wild to climb!" enthused Ricky on his blog.
The Rathlin Effect *** 65m E8 6c
14/5/11 R. Bell, A.Moles
The beautiful prow of the Rathlin Wall.
Start up the corner to the left of Wall of Prey. A line of crimps lead across the top of the lichen wall and up to a triangular niche. Small nuts and good no.1 cam. Climb diagonally up and left to a hanging block with a letter box above. Swing up into the niche and climb the groove system on the arete in a spectacular situation. Move right around the last roof at an old rusty peg and then straight up past a very exposed boulder problem. The big foot ledge 8m below the top of the crag is a nice place to take a moment. Finish up the arete.
Speaking to UKC a few weeks prior to his successful ascent Ricky told us that:
"I was thinking it might be E9 but now I think E8...who knows/who cares -- I don't haha..it's just brilliant! 60m pitch... hard E7 into an airy E7 with a good rest in the middle..."
Ricky hasn't been the only one out on the hard routes though. Andy Marshall has made the second ascent (headpoint) of Ricky Bell's An Bealach Eile, E8 6c also at Fairhead.
James McHaffie had a productive weekend in North Wales, establishing an Ogwen highball arête named Devil's... Read more
As reported previously, German/Norwegian Thilo Schröter has a good time in Rocklands this summer, with multiple ascents of... Read more
Tonight's Friday video features 22 year-old, up-and-coming US trad climber Molly Mitchell on her new routes,... Read more
Ethan Pringle has made the first ascent of what he calls his possibly coolest and most unique first ascent ever, Black... Read more
25 years after Mick Fowler, Nikki Duggan and Steve Sustad summited in 1990, Irish sea stack fanatic Iain Miller has... Read more