Ondra Speaks on Total Eclipseby Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Jun/2011
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He has now given us his thoughts on Total Eclipse, the unrepeated 8c+/9a from John Dunne:
"Hello, I am sorry I am replying that late, I can see the article is on already. Well, Total Eclipse is an impressive climb. I did the moves of the crux above the ledge quite fast, but the roof was already seeping, two undercuts were wet, but I had thought it could still go. Initially I had found it quite difficult on the lip of the roof, but in the end I found tricky way to drop my knee and that made it way less powerful, but it is still a move one can easily fall off.
On the second go I slipped off the first crux, the third go I made it through the crux, got into the roof, but found out that even the clipping hold is seeping. I managed to clip, but didn't manage to pull on those two wet undercuts. The grade 8c+/9a seems appropriate to me, though I have no idea what the roof is like with good conditions and how pumped you are on the lip. The moves in the crux are reachy, but I believe there is a sequence even for shorter climbers, slightly harder, but still possible."
Adam has a quick comment for John himself:
"Impressive achievement back in those years John!"
And what is next for Adam Ondra?
"I am going to [the World Championship at] Arco, and training hard for it!"
Thanks Adam - and well done!
More photos of Adam at Malham can be found on Vojtech's website.