Shauna Coxsey climbing to victory in the female Senior category - BBC's 2011
UKC News, Jan 2011
© Alex Messenger / BMC 18 year old Shauna Coxsey has climbed Pilgrim (Font 8A+ / V12) in Parisella's Cave, Llandudno, North Wales.
It is thought this is the hardest boulder problem climbed by a woman in the UK.
Shauna is the current British Bouldering Champion and has previously climbed other hard Welsh boulder problems such as the V9 Jerry's Roof in the Llanberis Pass and the V10 Lou Ferrino in Parisella's Cave. She also redpointed the classic F8a sport route of Raindogs at Malham when she was just 16.
Pilgrim links the start of the Left Wall Traverse (V8) in to a reverse of the crux section of Cave Life (V9) to reach the starting holds of the steep and reachy Rock Atrocity (V9), which it follows in full - see the video of Shauna below.
Pilgrim is the first half of the mega-problem Pilgrimage (also known as 'The Big Link'), a very long V14 from Malcolm Smith that crosses the entire cave.
Ormes legend Chris Doyle commented to UKC on Shauna's recent success:
"Pilgrim is definitely 8A+ - it's a step up from the 8As in the cave! I think Shauna's ascent is really significant as it is a big step up from what has been done by a woman previously on British soil. The problem is full on power endurance all the way to that heartbreaking last move."
North Wales based cave dweller and limestone pervert Pete Robins knows the dark recesses of Parisella's like he knows the opening times of the Llanberis fish and chip shop. He was particularly impressed with Shauna's effort and told us:
"Pilgrim, the initial half of The Big Link, is a great problem in its own right because its perma-dry and pure power endurance. This is an especially awesome achievement from Shauna as she has to cut loose on the crux, where most lank their way through. Where will you go from here Shauna? Second ascent of Pilgrimage?"
We got in touch with Shauna for a few more details of her ascent and of her bouldering in general:
How long did Pilgrim take you?
"There is one move on Rock Atrocity, to the flake, that I find really hard as I have to jump into it. Reversing the arch seemed okay with the beta I used. The climbing on Pilgrim is all about just having your sequence as short as possible, dialled so you don't even have to think and just keeping the motion continuous, its not a climb for hanging around and shaking out!"
What is your previous hardest boulder problem?
Thanks Shauna and well done!
VIDEO: Shauna Coxsey climbing Pilgrim (8A+)
Shauna Coxsey is sponsored by Five Ten