True North (8c) for Alan Cassidyby Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Jun/2011
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Alan reported on his blog:
"I pulled my finger out and got it done in less than perfect conditions, drying holds before attempts and getting resourceful in my hold drying methods (I might be looking for a tampon sponsor).
True North is now my 6th (or 7th) route graded 8c and I think it fits in quite neatly among routes like Rollito-Sharma Extension in terms of difficulty (i.e. low/mid 8c)."
Alan also went on to break a few hearts by suggesting a downgrade for the popular Malham Cove 8c Unjustified:
"...I knew at the time I did it that it all went too easy to be 8c given my form at the time and True North, by no means a hard 8c confirms it; Unjustified is a good grade easier. If Cry Freedom remains at 8b+ then even that grade may seem a bit much.
So there we go, somebody has done it, stepped up to take the flack and (with no malice intended) shatter a few egos. Maybe I'm wrong and it sure as hell doesn't matter one bit. It is still a fantastic climb..."
Read Alan's full write-up on his blog
Have you done or tried Unjustified? If so why not vote on the grade in the UKC Logbooks!
Alan Cassidy is sponsored by Podsacs and CragX