VIDEO: Chris Savage - Progress at Kilnsey 8c+by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Jul/2011
This news story has been read 8,866 times
Bristol based climber Chris Savage has just finished his summer climbing holiday in Yorkshire, where he managed an incredible ticklist. The highlights have been a fast redpoint of Progress (8c+) and True North (8c) at Kilnsey Crag (See earlier UKC report on True North).
Commenting at the end of his trip, Chris said:
"I'll be driving back to Bristol with a big smile on my face... I think the routes up here have really suited my style."
Speaking specifically about Progress, Chris said:
"I got all the moves on the route, including the crux, in a couple of sessions - but it's a real stamina test. To begin with, when I had done all the moves quickly, I thought it would only take me a couple of days to send. But I had underestimated the stamina needed so in the end it took me 6 days."
Chris told us the history of Progress:
"The route was Tony Mitchell's project in the early 1990s. But it was Jerry Moffatt that got the first ascent. Tony never climbed it - he fell off a the move on the roof at 24m - very unlucky! Nick Sellars did send it in 96 or 97 - taking him 24 days over three years. Nick and Jerry graded it 8c - and they were the only people to climb it before the holds snapped in 1997, making the route harder.
Then Steve McClure climbed it in 2006 - after the holds had snapped - and graded it 8c+. And now me!
So the route has only seen 4 ascents in total, and just 2 since the holds snapping."
Chris is sponsored by Sterling Rope.
Tonight's Friday Night Video is another great piece of work from UKC user David Linnett of Bald Eagle Productions. Climber... Read more
Over the hill? The wrong side of 40? Too many birthdays? Age is often used as an excuse to slow down and pursue less adventurous... Read more
After only a few days in Fontainebleau and in mostly less than ideal conditions, Jimmy Webb has already managed to repeat... Read more
Kevin Lopata has repeated Jan Hojer's Jour de chasse, ~8C, at Recloses, Fontainebleau. This was the 7th ascent... Read more