VIDEO: Chris Savage - Progress at Kilnsey 8c+by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Jul/2011
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Bristol based climber Chris Savage has just finished his summer climbing holiday in Yorkshire, where he managed an incredible ticklist. The highlights have been a fast redpoint of Progress (8c+) and True North (8c) at Kilnsey Crag (See earlier UKC report on True North).
Commenting at the end of his trip, Chris said:
"I'll be driving back to Bristol with a big smile on my face... I think the routes up here have really suited my style."
Speaking specifically about Progress, Chris said:
"I got all the moves on the route, including the crux, in a couple of sessions - but it's a real stamina test. To begin with, when I had done all the moves quickly, I thought it would only take me a couple of days to send. But I had underestimated the stamina needed so in the end it took me 6 days."
Chris told us the history of Progress:
"The route was Tony Mitchell's project in the early 1990s. But it was Jerry Moffatt that got the first ascent. Tony never climbed it - he fell off a the move on the roof at 24m - very unlucky! Nick Sellars did send it in 96 or 97 - taking him 24 days over three years. Nick and Jerry graded it 8c - and they were the only people to climb it before the holds snapped in 1997, making the route harder.
Then Steve McClure climbed it in 2006 - after the holds had snapped - and graded it 8c+. And now me!
So the route has only seen 4 ascents in total, and just 2 since the holds snapping."
Chris is sponsored by Sterling Rope.