VIDEO: Chris Savage - Progress at Kilnsey 8c+

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Jul/2011
This news story has been read 8,099 times

Bristol based climber Chris Savage has just finished his summer climbing holiday in Yorkshire, where he managed an incredible ticklist. The highlights have been a fast redpoint of Progress (8c+) and True North (8c) at Kilnsey Crag (See earlier UKC report on True North).

Commenting at the end of his trip, Chris said:

"I'll be driving back to Bristol with a big smile on my face... I think the routes up here have really suited my style."

Speaking specifically about Progress, Chris said:

"I got all the moves on the route, including the crux, in a couple of sessions - but it's a real stamina test. To begin with, when I had done all the moves quickly, I thought it would only take me a couple of days to send. But I had underestimated the stamina needed so in the end it took me 6 days."

VIDEO: Chris Savage climbing Progress 8c+ - Kilnsey

Chris told us the history of Progress:

"The route was Tony Mitchell's project in the early 1990s. But it was Jerry Moffatt that got the first ascent. Tony never climbed it - he fell off a the move on the roof at 24m - very unlucky! Nick Sellars did send it in 96 or 97 - taking him 24 days over three years. Nick and Jerry graded it 8c - and they were the only people to climb it before the holds snapped in 1997, making the route harder.

Then Steve McClure climbed it in 2006 - after the holds had snapped - and graded it 8c+. And now me!

So the route has only seen 4 ascents in total, and just 2 since the holds snapping."

Close this photo
+Chris Savage on holiday with his baby daughter Ciara (and a friendly mule!), 227 kb
Chris Savage on holiday with his baby daughter Ciara (and a friendly mule!)
UKC News, Jul 2011
© Chris Savage Collection

photo
Chris Savage climbing Progress - 8c+ Kilnsey Crag, Yorkshire
UKC News, Jul 2011
© Chris Savage Collection
Chris' holiday ticklist of routes above 8a (all at Kilnsey unless otherwise stated):
  1. Progress - 8c+ (6 days)
  2. True North - 8c (6 days)
  3. Dalliance - 8b+ (4th go)
  4. All out - 8b+ (4 days)
  5. Yorkshire Ripper 8b - (in a day)
  6. La Connection - 8b (second go)
  7. Ecstasy - 8b (second go)
  8. Grooved Arete 8a+ (second go)
  9. GBH - 8a+ (Malham, second go)
  10. Urgent Action - 8a+ (flash)
  11. Rattle and Hump - 8a (Raven Tor)
  12. Unleashing the Wild Physique - 8a (Cheedale, in a day)
  13. Raindogs - 8a (Malham)
  14. Soft Option - 8a (in a day)
  15. The Bulge - 8a (0nsight)
  16. Subculture - 8a (flash)
  17. The thumb - 8a (onsight)
  18. Le Lapin - 8a (flash)
  19. Cold Steel - 8a

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Chris Savage high above the Yorkshire Dales, on True North, Kilnsey North Buttress (F8c)
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor, May 2011
© Jack Geldard


Thanks go to Steve Dunning for the video, and also for all the beta on Progress that helped Chris!

Chris is sponsored by Sterling Rope.

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