UKC

Chamonix World CupVideo/photos

© Jack Geldard
The first round of the 2011 Lead World Cup was held in Chamonix, France on the 12th and 13th of July.

Jakob Schubert of Austria won the men's competition. Four climbers were in joint first place in the women's: Caroline Ciavaldini of France, Angela Eiter of Austria, Jain Kim of Korea and Mina Markovic of Slovenia. They all topped out on the final route.

Austrian Angela Eiter lowering off happy after successfully topping out on the final route.  © Jack Geldard
Austrian Angela Eiter lowering off happy after successfully topping out on the final route.
© Jack Geldard

American climber Sasha Digiulian competing in the finals in the Chamonix world cup  © Jack Geldard
American climber Sasha Digiulian competing in the finals in the Chamonix world cup
© Jack Geldard
Adam Ondra topped out on the first two qualifying routes, but then didn't make good progress on the next route and failed to qualify for the finals, coming in 17th place.

The men's final route was extremely tough with only Jakob Schubert topping out. Second place Ramon Julian Puigblanque looked really strong, but seemed to misread a couple of sections, which may have cost him vital strength and stopped him from reaching the top.

Of the women, whilst four of them topped out, and all four climbed fantastically, it was Jain Kim who looked the smoothest, perhaps with strength to spare.

The world's top competition climbers are now headed to Arco in Italy for the Climbing World Championship taking place next week.

Even though Ondra came in 17th place yesterday, our money is still on the young Czech to clean up in Arco. Showing he wasn't bothered by his 17th place, Ondra onsighted an 8c+ route in the Italian Aosta valley earlier today - the day after the competition in Chamonix! (More info to follow in the UKC News).

FINALS RESULTS:

1. Schubert Jakob 1990 AUT Top
2. Julian Puigblanque Ramón 1981 ESP 46
3. Midtboe Magnus 1988 NOR -42
4. Amma Sachi 1989 JPN 41 
5. Lachat Cédric 1984 SUI -40
6. Desgranges Romain 1982 FRA -38
7. Romain Manuel 1988 FRA -38
8. Kryukov Valeriy 1986 UKR 33 

1. Ciavaldini Caroline 1985 FRA Top
1. Eiter Angela 1986 AUT Top
1. Kim Jain 1988 KOR Top
1. Markovic Mina 1987 SLO Top
5. Oda Momoka 1994 JPN 48
6. Posch Katharina 1994 AUT -48
6. Schranz Christine 1988 AUT -48
8. DiGiulian Sasha 1992 USA 39 

.

VIDEO: Jakob Schubert winning the Chamonix round of the World Cup

Photo Gallery - Chamonix World Cup 2011:

The outdoor competition wall in the centre of Chamonix.  © Jack Geldard
The outdoor competition wall in the centre of Chamonix.
© Jack Geldard
Swiss climber Cedric Lachat fighting his way to 5th place  © Jack Geldard
Swiss climber Cedric Lachat fighting his way to 5th place
© Jack Geldard
Spanish power-house Ramón Julian Puigblanque came in second place.  © Jack Geldard
Spanish power-house Ramón Julian Puigblanque came in second place.
© Jack Geldard
The heavy rain didn't put off a large crowd who watched the competition and firework display afterwards  © Jack Geldard
The heavy rain didn't put off a large crowd who watched the competition and firework display afterwards
© Jack Geldard
Caroline Ciavaldini was the first woman to top out on the final route, much to the delight of her home crowd.  © Jack Geldard
Caroline Ciavaldini was the first woman to top out on the final route, much to the delight of her home crowd.
© Jack Geldard
After the competition many climbers were partying at the local MBC bar.  © Jack Geldard
After the competition many climbers were partying at the local MBC bar.
© Jack Geldard

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15 Jul, 2011
how on earth did Jakob climb with that awful music?
15 Jul, 2011
wa thinking the same thing - what a distracting situation! And the spotlight throwing those defined shadows over everything, would add a bit to finding footholds. Like climbing with a headtorch. Do these top climbers train in a distracting environment I wonder, to prepare?
17 Jul, 2011
Great end to a rainy rest day in cham! The music was much better for most of the other climbs, just bad timing for the winner.
18 Jul, 2011
Yes, in sequence too I believe. Very impressive stuff, but I'd like to have seen it from some other angles too.
18 Jul, 2011
I thought it looked one of the least inspiring looking walls I've ever seen, as I drove past it the other day, so I doubt if that would have helped!
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