New Font 8A+ on Yorkshire Grit by Tom Peckittby Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Jul/2011
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Walking up to the crag in summer heat yesterday, Tom wasn't full of hope for succeeding on the problem, however when he arrived at the crag the cloud cover was thick, the breezy chilly and the rock as grippy as on any winter day.
Tom told us:
"Toe-Fu (probably around 8a+ but definitely morpho) involves holding a slopey ramp and large undercut pocket to start then wildly flinging a toe about six feet to the arete. With the toe hook still on, a full span lunge to a decent finger slot follows. At full span, you need to dyno into a very awkward pocket in the underside of the roof, which is probably the crux. A comparatively easy but dropable top out follows, trending towards the top of the "trunk" feature.
I have to say I'm made up with this. It's an inspiring line and very unusual moves, certainly for grit. To have such good conditions in British summer time was also something I was very glad to capitalise on!"
Tom would also like to thank City Bloc and Banana Fingers for their support.