Gaz Parry on Unchi Maka (400m 8a)
UKC News, Sep 2011
© Jerry Gore / Alp-Base Gaz Parry, Giles Cornah and Jerry Gore have repeated Unchi Maka on the South West Face of Sialouze, France.
This 400m alpine route has a crux pitch of 8a and several pitches in the high 7s. The route is protected by a mixture of trad and bolts and finishes at an altitude of 3576m.
Commenting on his blog, Gaz said:
"We climbed all the pitches free, either O/S or flash except for the 8a where I took 1 fall. A hard pitch! ...For me this was a another great in-sight into hard climbing in alternative places. The walk in, the bivi, the temperatures and the altitude all lead to the added seriousness and difficulties of climbing something like this free... All in all though for me the hardest part was..........the bloody walking!"