Pembroke Round-Up & E8 Onsight for McHaffie

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Sep/2011
This news story has been read 7,316 times

Leap E8 gets multiple ascents and James McHaffie onsights Point Blank and more:

The last few weeks have seen multiple ascents of James Pearson's relatively new Pembroke route 'Do You know Where your Children are?' (E8) in Huntsman's Leap.

Close this photo
+Dave Pickford making a repeat of the interestingly named 'Do You know Where your Children are?' - E8, 187 kb
Dave Pickford making a repeat of the interestingly named 'Do You know Where your Children are?' - E8
UKC News, Sep 2011
© Neil Mawson

The route has succumbed to Charlie Woodburn (see DMM News), Dave Pickford, Neil Mawson and Rob Lamey. James was initially unsure of the grade, suggesting maybe E8 or E9. Repeat ascensionists have settled the grade down to E8 and Mawson described the route as being a runout 7c+ with reasonable gear.

Rob Lamey also made a bold flash of the run-out Huntsman's Leap E7 Boat to Naxos.

Also on the impressive Pembroke front, James McHaffie had a quick weekend trip down there.

Reticent as ever, James, when I asked him what he had got up to, said "Don't write anything cheesy".

+James McHaffie onsighting Point Blank E8 in Stennis Ford, 215 kb
James McHaffie onsighting Point Blank E8 in Stennis Ford
UKC News, Sep 2011
© Andrew Morris

+James McHaffie onsighting Point Blank E8 in a quick weekend hit., 208 kb
James McHaffie onsighting Point Blank E8 in a quick weekend hit.
UKC News, Sep 2011
© Andrew Morris
I'll let his ticklist do the talking. James was slightly tired when he arrived, having only had one rest day after trying Rainshadow (9a) at Malham, but a bit of fatigue didn't slow him down too much... and it goes without saying all the following routes are climbed onsight:

Day 1 (tired):

  • Stennis the Menace (E6 6c)
  • The Great Elmyra (E6 6c)
  • From a Distance (E6/7 6c)

Day 2 (not as tired any more!)

  • Little Hunt (E6 6b)
  • Unknown E5
  • Point Blank (E8 6c)
  • Subterraneon (E7 6c) - James thought this was a serious E7, but he did say he was feeling a little tired by this point.

Day 3 - morning quick hit:

  • Dusk till Dawn (E7)

James was climbing with Ben Bransby who also made short work of Point Blank after James, flashing the route on James' gear.

photo
James McHaffie - Point Blank E8
UKC News, Sep 2011
© Andrew Morris


Neil Mawson is sponsored by Marmot , Zero-G Climbing , Five Ten and Climbing Technology

Charlie Woodburn is sponsored by Beta Climbing Designs, DMM and Sterling Rope

James McHaffie is sponsored by Wild Country , Sterling Rope and Red Chili


Forums ( Read More... | 8 comments, 06 Sep 2011 )
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