Koyamada and Keller at Sustenpassby Björn Pohl - UKC Sep/2011
This news story has been read 4,956 times
Until crisper conditions arrive at Magic wood and Ticino, Dai Koyamada has gone up on altitude, to Sustenpass ~2300m above sea level in the Swiss Alps.
Guided by friend and [sort of] local Martin Keller, Dai has repeated some difficult problems and made a first ascent.
The last couple of days I have been climbing in the Sustenpass, it is really good temperature!
During two days of climbing there, I completed one open project. The new problem is in the area of Steingletscher of Sustenpass. It starts from Fruchte des zorns, 8A/A+ and links into Machine gun, 7C+/8A. It was a really nice one! I felt 8B/B+. I named it Paradise lost.
On the next day, I did Sputnik, 8B, [in very quick time] which is also a really wonderful line.
I saw a comment from someone who wants to see a movie of my ascents and I just wanted to say I have movies of all my ascents and am going to release them in some kind of work.
Something to look forward to!
Meanwhile, Martin Keller had a really crap day, feeling super weak. But as the perfect conditions arrived towards the evening, he couldn't resist a "training go" on his looong standing Highlander-project. To his own big surprise
...my "training"-go ended up with me repeating Ikarus, 8B+, and going down on the second last move of the Highlander-project cause of a slipping toe-hook - BAMMMMM!!!
Martin Keller is sponsored by: Moon Climbing
Franco Cookson has re-climbed Black Knight on the popular Sphinx Buttress at Wainstones, North Yorkshire - the... Read more
As reported in a previous UKC article on GCSE Climbing, September marks the start of a revamped GCSE syllabus in a number of... Read more
Alex Barrows has climbed his first 8C, ticking The Wheel of Life at Hollow Mountain Cave - Hollow Mountain Area bouldering... Read more
Dai Koyamada has made the first ascent of Nehanna, ~8B+/C, at Gero, Japan. Dai has been forced to climb at night lately because... Read more
Martin Keller has finally made the first ascent of what has to be one of the longest standing projects in bouldering history. His... Read more