Koyamada and Keller at Sustenpass

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• Swiss New Route for Andy Cave and Twid Turner
• Koyamada and Keller at Sustenpass
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• News for September 2011

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Dai Koyamada on "Paradise lost", 8B/+, Sustenpass
Björn Pohl - UKC, Sep 2011
© Ikuko Serata

Until crisper conditions arrive at Magic wood and Ticino, Dai Koyamada has gone up on altitude, to Sustenpass ~2300m above sea level in the Swiss Alps.

Guided by friend and [sort of] local Martin Keller, Dai has repeated some difficult problems and made a first ascent.

The last couple of days I have been climbing in the Sustenpass, it is really good temperature!
During two days of climbing there, I completed one open project. The new problem is in the area of Steingletscher of Sustenpass. It starts from Fruchte des zorns, 8A/A+ and links into Machine gun, 7C+/8A. It was a really nice one! I felt 8B/B+. I named it Paradise lost.

On the next day, I did Sputnik, 8B, [in very quick time] which is also a really wonderful line.

I saw a comment from someone who wants to see a movie of my ascents and I just wanted to say I have movies of all my ascents and am going to release them in some kind of work.

Something to look forward to!

Dai Koyamada and Martin Keller talking beta in front of Traumland and Ikarus
Björn Pohl - UKC, Sep 2011
© Ikuko Serata

Meanwhile, Martin Keller had a really crap day, feeling super weak. But as the perfect conditions arrived towards the evening, he couldn't resist a "training go" on his looong standing Highlander-project. To his own big surprise

...my "training"-go ended up with me repeating Ikarus, 8B+, and going down on the second last move of the Highlander-project cause of a slipping toe-hook - BAMMMMM!!!

Dai Koyamada is sponsored by: Black Diamond, Beal, Mad Rock, Flashed, Inga and Musashi

Martin Keller is sponsored by: Moon Climbing

Forums ( Read More... | 1 comments, 19 Sep 2011 )

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