Swiss New Route for Andy Cave and Twid Turnerby Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Sep/2011
This news story has been read 8,870 times
Andy said "I first saw this line in 1999 after climbing the route Agony with The Champ (Simon Nadin), I couldn't believe no one had tried it, it is a superb piece of rock leading to a needle summit."
The start is a butch 30 metre 7b+ pulling through a couple of roofs which Twid fired. Andy pulled off the crux second pitch in a 'skin of the teeth battle' being filmed by Alistair Lee of Posing Productions.
"It was un-chalked, very hot, plus the pressure of the camera! I nearly blew it four times. It felt like 8a, but is probably 7c/7c+. I was so happy to reach the belay!"
Two more pitches of 7b lead to the final arÍte and then the ridge to the summit. Simelistock is part of the Engelhorner cirque - an uncrowded, alpine-verdonesque paradise.