Swiss New Route for Andy Cave and Twid Turner

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Sep/2011
This news story has been read 8,517 times
British climbers Andy Cave and Twid Turner climbed 'Ecstasy' a stunning new route on the southwest face of the Gross Simelistock (2482m) in Switzerland on Tuesday 13th September.

+Andy Cave leading the crux pitch of his new route Ecstasy, 197 kbAndy Cave leading the crux pitch of his new route Ecstasy
© Alastair Lee / Posing Productions

+Andy Cave and Twid Turner hanging out on Ecstasy, 234 kbAndy Cave and Twid Turner hanging out on Ecstasy
© Alastair Lee / Posing Productions
They climbed the Burkli & Keusen 1972 aid line adding new bolts back in June, but ran out of time to complete a free ascent because of mixed weather.

Andy said "I first saw this line in 1999 after climbing the route Agony with The Champ (Simon Nadin), I couldn't believe no one had tried it, it is a superb piece of rock leading to a needle summit."

The start is a butch 30 metre 7b+ pulling through a couple of roofs which Twid fired. Andy pulled off the crux second pitch in a 'skin of the teeth battle' being filmed by Alistair Lee of Posing Productions.

"It was un-chalked, very hot, plus the pressure of the camera! I nearly blew it four times. It felt like 8a, but is probably 7c/7c+. I was so happy to reach the belay!"

Two more pitches of 7b lead to the final arÍte and then the ridge to the summit. Simelistock is part of the Engelhorner cirque - an uncrowded, alpine-verdonesque paradise.


+Alastair Lee on hand to capture the action on video., 196 kbAlastair Lee on hand to capture the action on video.
© Alastair Lee / Posing Productions


Andy is sponsored by Lowe Alpine, Petzl and Beal.

Twid Turner is sponsored by Mountain Equipment and DMM.

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