Swiss New Route for Andy Cave and Twid Turnerby Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Sep/2011
This news story has been read 9,310 times
Andy said "I first saw this line in 1999 after climbing the route Agony with The Champ (Simon Nadin), I couldn't believe no one had tried it, it is a superb piece of rock leading to a needle summit."
The start is a butch 30 metre 7b+ pulling through a couple of roofs which Twid fired. Andy pulled off the crux second pitch in a 'skin of the teeth battle' being filmed by Alistair Lee of Posing Productions.
"It was un-chalked, very hot, plus the pressure of the camera! I nearly blew it four times. It felt like 8a, but is probably 7c/7c+. I was so happy to reach the belay!"
Two more pitches of 7b lead to the final arÍte and then the ridge to the summit. Simelistock is part of the Engelhorner cirque - an uncrowded, alpine-verdonesque paradise.
Canadian climber Sonnie Trotter and Will Stanhope made the first free one-push ascent of the Ewbank Route on the Totem Pole,... Read more
22 year-old Nathan Phillips has just returned from a successful month-long trip to Averstal (AKA: Magic Wood), Switzerland, where... Read more
Tom Livingstone and Tony Stone have climbed Longhope Route (E7 6c) on St Johns Head, Hoy, established by Ed Drummond... Read more
Just in time for the Scottish winter season, we have an exclusive extract from Hot Aches Productions' film Distilled.... Read more
So this week it is British legend Andy Cave, climbing in Scotland. This is the trailer for the forthcoming film Distilled from... Read more