Fred Nicole climbs Le Boa - New Font 8Cby Björn Pohl - UKC Sep/2011
This news story has been read 12,541 times
Fred commented on the prAna website:
"It was one of those longterm projects, which you never know if it will go for sure. I started trying it two years ago. It was just after completing L'Isola che no c'é.
I enjoy having this kind of projects where you can go back over and over again, and slowly, try after try, you start to visualize the complete picture of it.
It is a sit down start on a big snake like looking structure, which also gives the name to the problem. Some powerful moves on pockets underclings that bring you to a tricky traverse with more pockets and a finish with long moves into a big flake. It ends in another problem called Mosaik, rated V11 or 8A. The first four moves are by far the hardest, but the last ten are quite delicate and bring a great dimension to the line."
Fred actually did this problem way back in March, but as he doesn't feel any need to make the headlines anymore, he has been very low key about it.
"Most of the time I don't grade my boulders anymore, but people are still curious what they could be. On this one my feeling lies around 8C boulder, as it felt as the hardest boulder I ever did on pockets. For sure the hardest thing since L'isola che non c'é and reckoning the time spent on it anyway an important line for me."
The first part of the problem is featured at the end of the video.
Full story: prAna
Franco Cookson has re-climbed Black Knight on the popular Sphinx Buttress at Wainstones, North Yorkshire - the... Read more
As reported in a previous UKC article on GCSE Climbing, September marks the start of a revamped GCSE syllabus in a number of... Read more
Fred Nicole has repeated Nalle Hukkataival's The Escapist, ~8B/+, in the Fortress area of Rocklands, South Africa. The problem... Read more
In this excerpt from Chuck Fryberger's "Core", the grand master of bouldering, Fred Nicole, gives us his view on bouldering,... Read more