Koyamada strikes again

by Björn Pohl - UKC Oct/2011
This news story has been read 5,949 times

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+Dai Koyamada on Daedalus direct, 8B+/C, Sustenpass, Switzerland, 94 kb
Dai Koyamada on Daedalus direct, 8B+/C, Sustenpass, Switzerland
Björn Pohl - UKC, Oct 2011
© Ikuko Serata

Dai Koyamada's Switzerland trip is almost over. His main objective, to climb The story of 2 worlds from a lower start* than the original seems to have to remain a dream for now.

"It is unlucky to me the weather goes bad in weekend. I suspect I could have one more climbing day, though."

To call his trip anything but successful would be a mistake though if you ask me. With several first ascents and repeats of problems in the 8B to 8B+/C range, Dai has once again proved he is one of the very best in the game.

His latest FA was Daedalus direct at the Sustenpass.

I made the first ascent of an open project which was showed to me by Martin [Keller], Deadalus direct in Sustenpass the day before yesterday.
I felt it was harder than Deadalus [8B+].
It's maybe 8B+/8C, I think.

I will go back home to Japan next Monday.

*For those of you not familiar with the "Story-story", to make a long story short, Dai was given the wrong information about where the problem starts and subsequently started two moves in when he (thought he) made the 2nd ascent. Now he has tried it from what he considers the only logical start, with both hands in an undercling. Due to the unusually warm weather, unfortunately he hasn't had much of a chance linking the whole thing this time.

Dai Koyamada is sponsored by: Black Diamond, Beal, Mad Rock, Flashed, Inga and Musashi


Forums ( Read More... | 1 comments, 06 Oct 2011 )
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