Adam Ondra speaks about focusing on bouldering

by Björn Pohl - UKC Oct/2011
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photo
Adam Ondra and Dai Koyamada
Björn Pohl - UKC, Sep 2011
© Koyamada coll.

Recently, whether during the fall or autumn is still debatable, Adam Ondra has been focusing more on bouldering. That he is on form is quite clear if you look at what he has done lately.

Has he ever been out of shape though?

I asked him a couple of questions about how things are going.

Do you feel focusing a bit more on bouldering lately has made a significant difference yet? I mean... are things going according to plan?
For sure the level of pure power (long moves, good holds, no feet) is completely different and that made difference on problems like Remembrance of things past [An 8B+ by Daniel Woods in the darkness cave, Magic Wood] which I would not have done in the last years, because I would not have been able pull on one arm so hard. Campusing helped me a lot.

I have still a lot of to do on my ticklist, but judging from how I feel climbing on plastic, I must be in quite good shape.
It has been still too hot for bouldering recently, so hopefully I will feel the real shape on the rock pretty soon when the temps get better.

Which problems did you like the best and why? Which are you the most happy with having done?
I liked the most Practice of the Wild [Chris Sharma's 8C in Magic Wood]. It is a great obvious line, one might call it a dark hole in the ground, [but] it has its unique atmosphere and great moves.
But the hardest and the most valuable ascent was for sure Monkey Wedding [8C by Fred Nicole] in Rocklands.

Thanks Adam, and see you in Stockholm soon!

Adam Ondra is sponsored by: Black Diamond, Montura, La Sportiva, Beal and Hudy Sports

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