Exped Report: Lunag Vby commandoclimber Nov/2011
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The impressive triangular peak called Jobo Rinjang which dominates the massif, fell to an impressive alpine ascent by two Americans via its SW face in 2009. Since then interest has risen in the massif which saw a strong French team successfully summit Lunag I in October last year for which they were nominated the Piolet d'Or.
After several forays to find a route up the mountain the expedition came to realise that they were too early to climb on the particular aspect of the mountain they had chosen. It was too warm and after witnessing significant rock fall and avalanches scour the face they abandoned base camp with a vow to return to try again. Whilst in the area Steve made a solo ascent of the South pinnacle of Nangpa Goteya, a rocky 5700 meter mountain just behind base camp. The team also gathered plenty of valuable information for future expeditions wishing to visit the area that clearly doesn't and hasn't seen many western visitors in recent times. Matt Welborn accompanied us on the expedition as Base Camp Manager, a Nepali Ministry requirement after Andy Parkin was attacked by bandits in the same area last year.
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