Exped Report: Lunag V

by commandoclimber Nov/2011
This news story has been read 3,208 times

Steve Holmes and Neil Phillips have just returned from an unsuccessful attempt on the unclimbed Lunag V in a hidden corner of the Kumbu, Nepal.

The impressive triangular peak called Jobo Rinjang which dominates the massif, fell to an impressive alpine ascent by two Americans via its SW face in 2009. Since then interest has risen in the massif which saw a strong French team successfully summit Lunag I in October last year for which they were nominated the Piolet d'Or.

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+From left to right - Neil Phillips, Matt Welborn and Steve Holmes, 227 kb
From left to right - Neil Phillips, Matt Welborn and Steve Holmes
commandoclimber, Nov 2011
© Steve Holmes Vertical Fever

After several forays to find a route up the mountain the expedition came to realise that they were too early to climb on the particular aspect of the mountain they had chosen. It was too warm and after witnessing significant rock fall and avalanches scour the face they abandoned base camp with a vow to return to try again. Whilst in the area Steve made a solo ascent of the South pinnacle of Nangpa Goteya, a rocky 5700 meter mountain just behind base camp. The team also gathered plenty of valuable information for future expeditions wishing to visit the area that clearly doesn't and hasn't seen many western visitors in recent times. Matt Welborn accompanied us on the expedition as Base Camp Manager, a Nepali Ministry requirement after Andy Parkin was attacked by bandits in the same area last year.

More info on: Vertical Fever

PHOTOS:

+The still unclimbed Lunag IV & V, 154 kb
The still unclimbed Lunag IV & V
commandoclimber, Nov 2011
© Steve Holmes Vertical Fever

+On route to the Nangpa La , 135 kb
On route to the Nangpa La
commandoclimber, Nov 2011
© Steve Holmes Vertical Fever

+Steve Holmes on the South pinnacle of Nangpa Goteya, 179 kb
Steve Holmes on the South pinnacle of Nangpa Goteya
commandoclimber, Nov 2011
© Steve Holmes Vertical Fever


The expedition was sponsored by Informa and had received support from the Mount Everest Foundation, Mark Clifford Award, Lyon Equipment , Mountain Equipment and Black Diamond .


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