Dreams of youth in Madagascar

by Björn Pohl - UKC Nov/2011
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The guys
Björn Pohl - UKC, Nov 2011
© Kletterszene

In August this year, four young Germans, Martin Schindele, Lukas Binder, Philipp Hofmann and Tobias Baur, made the first ascent of Dreams of youth on the 700m Tsaranoro Atsimo, in the in Tsaranoro Valley, Madagascar.

11 of the 18 pitches are 8a or harder, and with three 8b+'s and one 8c, it very much comparable to its famous neighbor, Tough enough on the east face of Karambony in the same valley, which Adam Ondra made the first free ascent of about one year ago.

A huge difference however is that Dreams of youth remains to be freed. All the harder pitches were climbed using aid.

Sorry this post was more than a little misleading regarding this "small detail".

Here's the break down: 6a+, 6b+, 7b+, 8a+, 8c, 8b, 8a, 8b+, 8c, 8b, 8a, 8b+, 8b+, 7c+, 6b, 7a, 7a, 6a

And here is a video:

Source: Kletterszene

The expedition was sponsored by: Edelrid, Deuter, Haglöfs, Lowa, Marmot, Red Chili, DAV and Salewa


Forums ( Read More... | 17 comments, 08 Nov 2011 )
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