Dai Koyamada climbs his best ever problemby Björn Pohl - UKC Nov/2011
This news story has been read 10,698 times
27crags picked up the news of Dai Koyamada having made the first ascent of a dream project of his at Kasagi, Japan.
Dai found the line in April while driving around on a rest day (searching for new lines presumably), and after talking to the landowner the cleaning away a lot of illegally dumped garbage, he could get to work.
The problem, which is very steep, starts with some very continuous compression moves between a crack and an arÍte and the continues up the crack via finger-jams and pinches.
If i interpret the less than perfect translation correct, Dai worked the line for more than 14 days, both before and after his trip to Switzerland, before he could finally make the first ascent of Tokoyo (Distant), a problem he describes as the best he has ever done, and he has done a few in his day.
"Challange of a lifetime I think"
I have asked Dai to tell me more about the ascent, so hopefully there will be more information soon. Maybe he will even reveal how difficult he thinks it is.
The annual British Lead and Speed Championships and the final round of the BMC/MCofS Junior Lead Cup and the IFSC... Read more
Alexander Megos has made the first ascent of Supernova, 9a+/b, at the very steep Planetarium in Frankenjura. The crux comes at... Read more
Here is what Dai says about his new boulder problem Horizon, at Mount Hiei, Kyushu. At last! Finally I was able to hold... Read more
The story of Horizon, Dai Koyamada's new super boulder at Mount Hiei, Kyushu, Japan will be up soon, but until then, here are... Read more