Gabri climbs Masoniamoci, 8c+/9a + world serviceby Björn Pohl - UKC Nov/2011
This news story has been read 4,783 times
Gabriele Moroni, who has been showing good form all year, has made the 2nd ascent of Adam Ondra's Masoniamoci at Masone near Lecco in Northern Italy (not to be confused with the more well known Massone close to Arco).
In his blog, Gabri writes that he needed three days, or two days and one try if you like, to succeed on the steep and very bouldery line, which he describes as an 8B boulder followed by an 8a route:
Masoniamoci is definitely a very bouldery route consisting of a super hard bottom part followed by a short but resistant 8a route!
The first part is about 12 moves long with a kinda jump start to get a sidepull, two terrible shouldery moves on gastons, a very high foot step, a crazy small undercling to match and a final brutal deadpoint move to get a slopey rail... from here you have another 5 easier but still difficult moves to get a good hold! Adam says he felt this section as an 8b boulder and I do the same.
Adam, who made the first ascent in 2009, had given it 8c+/9a and Gabri confirms this grade, saying it is very much comparable to his own Elementi di Disturbo, 8c+/9a, at Gressoney.
Other unrepeated world class ascents from the past few weeks are:
Enzo Oddo's first ascent of one of the ultimate routes of the Petzl Roctrip at Cantobre, France, back in 2004 (the event not the ascent. Enzo was about 9 years old at the time). An athletic 8b with bad feet followed by an 8A+ on monos according to the young Frenchman.
Heli Cotter, from Rosenheim, Germany, has made the 3rd ascent of Alex Huber's Black power, ~8c+/9a, at Schleier Wasserfall. Alex made the first ascent way back in 1993, and until now, only Adam Onda had been able to repeat it.
In the Red River Gorge, Kentucky, Jorg Verhoeven, has made some pretty impressive repeats. His hardes was Jonathan Siegrist's Pure imagination, 9a, at the Chocolate factory, which he did in "around five tries".
He has also repeated Southern smoke, 8c+, and 50 words for pump, 8c/+, as well as "25 routes 5.13 (7c+ to 8b) most on sight or flash".
Over the hill? The wrong side of 40? Too many birthdays? Age is often used as an excuse to slow down and pursue less adventurous... Read more
British climbers Matt Burdekin and Tom Ripley have made the first ascent of a new line on the East Face of Aguja Bifida Sur... Read more
Tim Emmett and Slovenian climber Klemen Premrl have established a remarkable new line at Helmcken Falls in Canada, which the pair... Read more
20 year-old French climber Enzo Oddo is known primarily for his hard sport ascents up to 9a+, which he achieved as a young... Read more
Jorg Verhoeven has repeated James Kassay's direct varation of Dai Koyamada's 60+ move roof climb The wheel of life,... Read more
In October 2014, Jorg Verhoeven spent one month in Yosemite Valley, California with one goal in mind - to make a free... Read more