Shanbara, new 8C from Koyamadaby Björn Pohl - UKC Jan/2012
This news story has been read 9,350 times
Just before Christmas Dai Koyamada made the first ascent of Shanbara, yet another extreme problem, at Toyota in Japan.
"On 20th December 2011, I completed a new line in Toyota, Japan.
This problem is a sit down start version of Agartha, 8B+, and is called Shanbara.
There are four moves in the roof before linking into Agartha.
The crux is [still] a dyno in Agartha.
It took me 5 days of tries and I think this problem is a very good one.
Probably, the grade is 8C, but [as always] I wait for the opinion of the repeater."
Here's the video of Dai doing the stand up version:
Tonight's Friday Night Video follows on nicely from our recent article 'The Occasional Alpinist's Guide to the... Read more
Ed Booth and Angus Kille both made an ascent of Leo Houlding's E9 6c on 28th September. Rare Lichen is a... Read more
Here is what Dai says about his new boulder problem Horizon, at Mount Hiei, Kyushu. At last! Finally I was able to hold... Read more
The story of Horizon, Dai Koyamada's new super boulder at Mount Hiei, Kyushu, Japan will be up soon, but until then, here are... Read more