FRI NIGHT VID: Griffith and Steck - Les Drusby Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Jan/2012
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Jon has commented on his blog about this route and the reports following his and Ueli Steck's ascent:
"Quick short video about climbing the Lesueur with variation exit last week. I stated twice very very explicitly on my report that we did a variation exit so a comment that I was claiming something false is a bit unfair. I fully understand the importance of honesty and I think anything that I write I am very mindful of that. Anything which is even slightly controversial I shy away from (our 'fast' ascent of the Cassin this year for example). I climb for myself and the pleasure that I get from taking shots in these amazing locations, and sharing them with other like minded people.
It was a real joy to climb with Ueli on such a route and to watch him free the cruxes of it. I'm sorry if somehow this offended anyone but I didn't gloss over our route choice or try and hide anything in my report. The full Lesueur summer route has yet to be climbed in winter free, but then parts of it have fallen down and the original line is definitely not what people have climbed in winter in the past. Being a summer line it naturally favours the rock and avoids any ice or mixed gully systems. It is logical in my eyes to chose the line of least resistance in winter as we did it in winter - it is not logical to avoid a mixed chimney and favour a steep rock wall to the side of it. However as I explicitly said in my report we did traverse out early from the route thus missing some upper mixed pitches.
In any case maybe just watch the video for what it is and remember I'm not paid to do this stuff. It's a short video with some nice winter climbing on it. Regardless of any claims, enjoy it for that at least."
Jon Griffith is a professional mountain photographer - see his work on Alpine Exposures
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