Psyching up for End of the Affair
UKC News, Feb 2012
© Alex Messenger Lancashire based climber Jordan Buys has had a productive winter so far, with a long list of impressive ascents including a flash of the gritstone arete of End of the Affair (E8).
Here we give a brief round-up of what he has been up to;
Possible first siderunner-less ascent of the Midas Touch at a new grade of E7 6c-ish, (up from E6), at Anglezarke, Lancashire.
A flash ascent of End of the Affair at Curbar (E8 6c).
Jordan commented: "I've wanted this for a very long time but have been thwarted by bad weather on many visits. Harder than I thought it was going to be..."
The second ascent of Visions in Tan at Hawkcliffe, Yorkshire.
Jordan commented: "I gave this a good flash go but broke off the tiny hold I chose to use and got bored, so quickly headpointed it. Very safe, probably E6 6c not E7."
Jordan also took a ground fall off The Promise at Burbage, commenting: "I ripped the gear, missed the mat and ripped my pants!! I will be back..."
A flash ascent of Tetris, a stunning Font 7C at the Roaches. Ticking Mushin (Font 7C+) and Columns, (Font 7C+) in a few goes.
A quick ascent of the soft Font 8A at Hepburn called PreparationH, about which Jordan said: "This was a day trip which piled on the pressure. The pressure worked and I sent it pretty quick, despite being tired from driving. Class problem though."
The possible second ascent of the Dark Angel sit start at Stoupe Brow on the North Yorkshire's east coast sandstone. (Font 7C+). Followed by the third ascent of Requiem for a Dream, Font 8A. This is again at Stoupe Brow. Jordan said: "I can't believe climbs like this exist and so little is heard about them. A king line."
Second ascents of Dave Sutcliffe's new problems at Eavestones in Yorkshire. Jordan said: "I had the tour off Dave and repeated his two hard future classics there, Sky Diamond which is Font 7C and Digital Delirium which is about Font 7C+/8A maybe."
Add to that a quick trip to the Costa Blanca which included some 8a onsights, and that is quite a productive winter - nice on Jordan!
VIDEO: Jordan Buys on Requiem for a Dream