Trip report from Ciavaldiniby Björn Pohl - UKC Feb/2012
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James Pearson on Nix für Lutscher, 8c+, Bukit Keteri, Malaysia
Björn Pohl - UKC, Feb 2012
© Caroline Ciavaldini
Caroline Ciavaldini gives us a brief summary of her and boyfriend James Pearson's month in south east Asia
We 've been travelling for a whole month in Laos, then Thailand and Malaysia, discovering some unknown cliffs, always being amazed by the quality of the rock, the routes, the people.
Green climber's garden was the first stop, in Thakhek, Laos, a big roof full of holes, unusual 3D climbing.
Then Muac Lek, developed partly by Richard Eden, British ex-pat, again a 3 star cliff.
We kept on going with Ben's camp, next to Bangkok, land of snakes.Then Tonsai... the only disappointment of the trip, but for explanation, just look on James web site
Finally, we concluded this dream month with Bukit Keteri, Malaysia - love at first sight! Great climbing on smooth holes and tuffas, and the cherry on the cake... a big tick for each of us:
I did Mata Timur, 8b+ in a day, James goes with Nix fuer Lutscher, 8c+, the hardest route in South East Asia!One more evening sleeping under a little veranda at the habitants, tasting Malaysian meals, and James decided to go for a flash attempt of my 8b+... guess what... with methods just about opposites to the ones I gave him, a good fight and a bit of screaming, he made it! His first 8b+ flash! The exact grade he had told me he was dreaming about 1 year and a half ago!
A great holiday indeed, before sticking back to training back in Sheffield!
James Pearson is sponsored by: The North Face, La Sportiva, Wild Country, Adidas Eyewear, Waxx underwear and Eat natural.