Katy Whittaker Repeats The Angel's Shareby Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Feb/2012
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The Angel's Share.
The route, originally graded E8 7a by first acensionist Johnny Dawes, is a blank and protectionless slab of gritstone and was first climbed back in 1994 without bouldering mats.
Protection methods have moved on, and 8m high routes like this can be made much safer with a stack of bouldering mats, and it is in this ground-up bouldering style that Katy climbed the route, taking several falls from near the top.
Climbed in this style the routes weighs in at around highball Font 7C, and features very tenuous and smeary slab climbing high above the ground.
Katy's ascent comes not long after she became one of a very select group of women to have climbed an 8b sport route in the UK. Katy climbed the extremely crimpy and technical limestone route of Love Amongst the Butterflies at Cheedale in the Peak District last autumn.
NB: The photo above is of Michele Caminati climbing The Angel's Share and was taken by Nick Brown of Outcrop Films.