Fish Eye, 8c, 2nd go for Caroline Ciavaldiniby Björn Pohl - UKC Feb/2012
This news story has been read 4,146 times
After one month and a half in Asia at a leisurely rate of 3 routes per day, James and Caroline awarded themselves a month's "fitness training" in Spain, to grow their forearms before their upcoming multi-pitch projects in April.
Caroline Reports about her first day at Oliana, Catalunya, Spain:
We arrived in Spain the day before yesterday in our new VW van, freshly transformed into a camper. Tired from the long drive the day before, cooked by the baking sun, and quite frankly, intimidated by the length of the cliff – we were not hoping for much!
I had spotted 'Fish eye' last year; I thought it was possible, but hard... to be truthful, I planned it to be my project for this month. So I set off slowly up the route yesterday morning to discover the methods.
'Fish eye' is a pure endurance 8c, with some hard moves, big rests, and a final hard section at the very top. As the only method to get some endurance is to eat some, I threw myself into my red-point run, just to work on my arms... except that, after a very good and long fight, I found myself on the top, clipping the belay!
Well, it seems that the endurance is not so bad after all!
The fifth round of the IFSC Lead World Cup took place in Arco, Italy this weekend. In this historic climbing town, the event drew... Read more
Alex Megos has made the fourth ascent of Chris Sharma's Dreamcatcher, 9a, at Squamish, Canada. Quite unexpectedly, he made the... Read more
French climber Caroline Ciavaldini has free-climbed the Voie Petit 8b on the Grand Capucin on Mont Blanc du Tacul,... Read more
In April this year, Piotrek Schab, 19, repeated Chris Sharma's Papichulo at Oliana in Catalunya for his first of the... Read more