Pearson - Fast 8c+ And Goes For 9aby Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Mar/2012
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James Pearson on the upper tufa of Mind Control, 8c+, Oliana, Spain
UKC News, Mar 2012
© Francisco Taranto Jr James Pearson, currently in Spain with his girlfriend Caroline (see UKC News), has made a very fast ascent of the 8c+ sport route Mind Control at Oliana in the Lleida Provence, Spain.
James commented on his blog:
"Topping out on Mind Control, one of the longer routes up the centre of Oliana was a nice moment indeed. Mind Control is famous for being one of the 8c+'s onsighted by Adam Ondra last year, and so it was interesting to finally see the route in person, and try to comprehend what onsighting something like that entails, especially in the wet."
James is now stepping up the game to a 9a:
"With Mind Control in the bag, I moved on to my planned "long term project" in the form of Esclatamasters at the little visited cliff of Perles...
...The route is going well so far but is certainly a step up from anything I have tried before. I have managed to drag myself up the thing in overlapping halves which is confidence inspiring. However, the final crimpy wall feels so hard after climbing the steep and powerful initial section, and with the holds being as small and specific as they are, any mistake from fatigue is likely to be the end."
Full story with photos on James' Blog.
The photo was taken by Francisco Taranto Jr.