Mind control, 8c+, by Caroline Ciavaldiniby Björn Pohl - UKC Mar/2012
This news story has been read 3,846 times
Women are repeating Mind control, 8c+, at Oliana, as if it's going out of fashion. The latest quick ascent was made by Caroline Ciavaldini the other day, making her the first woman, after Daila Ojeda and Nina Caprez, to accomplish this feat.
James Pearson, Caroline's boyfriend:
Yesterday, just one day before her birthday, Caroline managed to fight her way to the top of Mind Control at the Spanish super cliff of Oliana. Having climbed the route a few days before, I had a pretty good idea of the difficulties involved, and decided to devote my rest day to being the perfect little Gri-Gri girl (boy) to give her the best chance of success.
She clipped the belay on her second try of the day, 3rd red-point in total, with another inspirational display of grit and determination – there was no way she was letting go of the final tricky tufa.
With the route ticked, there is nothing else to to today but lie happily in the sun, watch the beautiful view, and enjoy the company of good friends – what more could you wish for on your birthday?
After my beautiful debut in Fish Eye, which I succeeded on 2nd go, I found the courage to try to Mind Control, the famous 8c + in Oliana, unsighted by Adam Andra, but red pointed by superstars like: Chris Sharma, Dani Andrada, Gabri Moroni, my Brit ... and recently my two friends, Nina and Daila. These women's repeats gave me a little reassurance: maybe it wasn't so bad and possible after all.
Apparently, it was!
Tim Emmett and Slovenian climber Klemen Premrl have established a remarkable new line at Helmcken Falls in Canada, which the pair... Read more
Last year we totally surprised ourselves - we ran a footless comp and somehow it worked. It actually worked so well that we felt... Read more
Austrian WC-climber Jessica Pilz, 19, just returned home from Catalunya where she managed to do two routes in the ~8c+ range,... Read more
Last September French climber Caroline Ciavaldini made the first female ascent of Requiem E8 6c - Britain's first route... Read more
Florence Pinet has repeated Mind control, 8c, at Oliana, and Esclatamasterrs, 8c+, at Perles. She needed three sessions for the... Read more