Chris Davies has added a new hard sit-start to his existing problem New Noise at Tan Y Grisiau, Blaenau Ffestiniog, North Wales.
The existing stand-up/crouching start problem had seen a variety of different sequences worked out over the last few years, and now Chris has added the proper sit-start.
"There has always been I guess, the obvious starting position which is a crescent shaped feature at the base of the New Noise roof. Historically, this has been the foothold used with all of the methods of the crouch/standing starts. I did look at this initially with Adam Hocking and Dave Noden some years ago, but 'nails' was the verdict.
I'm not sure what has happened this year - possibly being put through my paces by Noden on a six month training bender last season, but the problem now goes from the true start at a chunky 8 (possibly 8a+, maybe harder?) and climbs superbly."
Ben Bransby has linked the classic Parisella's Cave problem of Rock Atrocity (V9) in to the newer hard problem of Bonnie (V12), estimating that this long boulder problem would be either V13 or F8c+ (route grade).
Ben commented on his blog:
"I had some unfinished business from last year – Pete's link of Lou into Bonnie (F8c+?) but when we got there it was just a bit too wet for a proper go so switched to trying Rock Atrocity into Bonnie. After a quick play on both to refresh the sequences decided to give it a blast and managed to spanner it off the last move – been a bit of a punter and forgotten to dry the last right hand hold. Escaped into Dyer's van to refuel and rest for an hour or so and then, a little tireder than the first go, managed to get back to the last move. Even after drying the hold was still a little damp and with visions of another slam down starting to enter my head decided to get on with it and things just stuck."
Ben Bransby is sponsored by DMM, Evolv, prAna, Western Mountaineering
Chris Davies is sponsored by Metolius, prAna, Evolv
This year's British Lead and Speed Climbing Championships and a round of the Paraclimbing Cup took place at Awesome Walls,... Read more
15 year old Laura Rogora, from Rome, Italy, has repeated Red Bull, 8c, at Collepardo, needing only three tries, making it her... Read more
James McHaffie had a productive weekend in North Wales, establishing an Ogwen highball arête named Devil's... Read more
Chris Doyle has linked Director's Cut 8B into Almost Familiar 7c to create Final Cut 8c at Parisella's Cave, North... Read more
French climber Caroline Ciavaldini has free-climbed the Voie Petit 8b on the Grand Capucin on Mont Blanc du Tacul,... Read more
Tom Livingstone and Tony Stone have climbed Longhope Route (E7 6c) on St Johns Head, Hoy, established by Ed Drummond... Read more